Sunday, July 26, 2020

Grandpa Does the Arizona Trail: Passage 19

Superstition Wilderness with Maxie and Richard


March 14-16, 2002

(Here are the verbatim notes from the trip, along with some original pictures, on a crude digital camera.  At the end is a little more analytical statement about the passage.)




3/14
Arrived Rogers Trough at 10:40 a.m. (actually, began hiking).  Day—bright and hazy, with 20 mph wind on the ridges (cool, crisp – takes me back to windy ridges in NH White Mtns).  Made Reavis Saddle in 2 hours for lunch (50-60 degrees, 20 mph winds).  Songs:  “Oh What a Beautiful Morning” (Oklahoma!!?!) as we’re getting ready to roll.  “The Road Goes Ever On,” J.R.R. Tolkien—while climbing to Reavis Saddle, with Maxie and me trying to remember verses.  Flowers:  not many, but yellow marigold-type, 2 purple, 1 many petaled, 1 4-petaled, 1 white daisy-type flower (bursage?), 1 light purple daisy-type flower.  Animals: 3 mule deer in wash (from car), 1 lizard, quail.  Plants: manzanita, agave, Alligator juniper on saddle.

3/15
7 a.m., 25 degrees, water frozen.

Last night – Sherry Camp at Pine Creek.  Sherry and cigars.  Seems to be plenty of water – Reavis, Pine Creek (big pool) Walnut Spring (decent, smelly pool).  Sunny, 50 degrees on Two Bar Ridge before Klondike.  11:30 a.m., called Chris from the ridge and got the answering machine.  Animals:  quail, scorpion, lizard.  Indian ruin 200 yards from Walnut Spring.  Dropoff and climb after Klondike Spring area (didn’t find the spring itself) is a killer.  Temperature on the ridge after Klondike probably 45-50 degrees, with 25 mph winds.  Gorgeous panoramas while hiking on the ridge.  Did not find either the tank or North Pole Spring on the trail before a climb to the wilderness boundary.  Long, approx. 10 mi. day.  About a mile and a half from the wilderness boundary, we picked up a hunting dog with a swollen right front leg.  Found the group of stock tanks marked on the map outside the wilderness boundary.  Only one had significant water in it.  Hiked approx. 1 mile down a 4x4 road to get to the tank, and camped next to it at about 6:30 p.m.  So tired that we ate gorp for dinner, and weren’t able to filter any water.

3/16
In the morning, Bill Mercer, a puma hunter from Globe, came out looking for his dogs (3), of which one was found.  Another came in after he had left in the morning.  The mud in the water buckets had not settled out in the morning; Richard’s filter was clogged after just a little while of pumping it.  My filter pumped about 2 liters before becoming very hard to use.  However, my filter did not get the dissolved clay completely out.  It started out like chocolate milk and came out of my filter a light grey-brown.  It was a lesson in the limitations of filters, and in what one might be willing to drink.  We made coffee and oatmeal from the filtered water, and cached ½ liter as emergency backup in my pack.  Two and a half miles later, we found Cottonwood Spring, which had clean water.

The thing that makes this hike hard occurs after Klondike Spring (which we didn’t find because we didn’t look for it).  To that point, water had been plentiful and easy to find, even in a drought year.
But in the unnamed creek canyon, things get dry.  The last water on the trail that we saw was Walnut Spring until a tank at the wilderness boundary at FR 83.  Also, this canyon is steep both ways, down and up.  Though the elevation loss and gain is about the same as from Rogers Trough to Reavis Saddle, it’s a lot steeper, especially on the North (climbing) side.  With fewer switchbacks, this climb really takes it out of you.  Just a slog.
We ascended to Two Bar Ridge.  Do breathtaking views and suddenly colder temperatures make up for that slog?  Maybe, if you planned it right.  We may not have.  Richard wanted to make it to the edge of the wilderness area by nightfall.  We soldiered on, but a lot of oomph was taken out by the long descent and climb (we’d passed a horse/donkey skeleton halfway up the climb).
We didn’t have time to look for the tank marked on the FS wilderness map in Tule Canyon.  It wasn’t really apparent from the trail.  We got to the edge of the wilderness area at 6 p.m. (10 a.m. to 6 p.m.), saw a tank in the valley to the right and camped there.

Tank Camp—a learning experience.

         1.  There are some kinds of dirt that pumps can’t handle.  I’ll have to ask Phil F. whether mud can be in solution (it can).  Darkness caught us making camp, so we saved the water purification for the following morning, after Richard had clogged his pump doing less than a half pint of purification.  Gorp, jerky, water, wine, and bed.
2.                  The tanks at this end were pretty dry.  There’s actually a metal tank on top of the ridge above the trail.  We were too late and too tired to investigate, but it’s possible that the tanks in this valley are filled from there.

                2. Tank water doesn’t settle out, and can’t be strained through a handkerchief to get the brown out.  The best I could do with my First Need filter was to move from dark brown to light brown.  We used it anyway for coffee and oatmeal.

According to the Beartooth Wilderness map of the Supers it’s 17.7 mi. point to point from Rogers Trough to the Roosevelt side wilderness boundary.  Richard pegged it at 20 mi, as did the women who wrote On the Arizona Trail.  (Of course, they also said that it was 9.5 miles between water points, which is almost certainly false.  But it’s not clear whether or not they’re counting Cottonwood Spring, outside the wilderness boundary, as the next water.)

Next morning, it wasn’t quite 2 miles to Cottonwood Spring, according to the map, but it felt longer.  Good water at Cottonwood and plenty of it, all the way to where we left the trail, near the marina and visitors center on Roosevelt Lake.  There are many spurs out on this trail; we took the Frazier Trailhead spur, and so had a hard time hooking up with Chris.  I’d been under the weather for more than a day by that time; I didn’t know until I took my temperature at home that I’d been hiking with a 101 degree fever.  Turns out that Chris’s sickness was the flu.

Summary:  A great trip, but too hard the way we did it.  Aside from not getting sick, the best way to do it would be to camp at Reavis on night 1, Klondike Spring (if it can be found) on night 2, and a full day to FR 83 on day 3.




 Certainly the women who wrote On the Arizona Trail are wrong when they call the trail difficult to follow and overgrown.  I’ve experienced much worse in the Mazatzals.  But water is critical, and it turns out that we didn’t check the one most critical aspect of a comfortable hike:  Klondike Spring.


Addendum, 11/26/2022


I'm just back from my first try at giving back to the Arizona Trail. We hiked in on November 18, 2022 from the Campaign (used to be Upper Horral?) Trailhead, up the Reavis Gap Trail for about 3.5 miles, then another mile south on the Arizona Trail, to Pine Creek. We set up camp to do trail work on the approximately 2 miles south of our campsite. The work crew consisted of 10 people besides me, including the two horse packers who supplied the crew with fresh water and packed in some camp supplies.

Great weather, not as cold as I had feared. It had been about 6 years since my last overnight backpack (though there had been plenty of base camp/dayhikes on the trail in the years since). So, I was hindered initially by my lack of packing fitness and the fact that I'd packed too much (hefting packs at the end of the trip, I found that mine was heavier by 5-10 pounds, without the tools we'd carried in). One thing I hadn't expected was the problem of hiking in multifocal glasses instead of contacts. That made me noticeably less secure in my footing. Beyond that, I was the only one with an external frame pack, which I'd mispacked at the beginning.

However, I found my fitness in the two days of trail maintenance (lopping overhanging branches from the trail and grubbing out live oaks, catclaw acacia, and yucca that had encroached on the trail. Hard but satisfying work, though even with long sleeves and gloves I had plenty of "rabid chipmunk" scars (scratches from thorns on arms and hands). The weather was perfect, and the company was great. I'd do it again easily.


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