Grandpa Does the Arizona Trail: Passage 35

Cedar Ranch Trailhead Marker

On September 20, Chris and I left our Grand Canyon National Park campsite, travelling to Flagstaff. On the way back, we scouted the south end of Passage 35 (going north), and glanced at the north end of Passage 34. After the hiking trip of yesterday at the south end of Passage 36, I decided to duct tape the shoes one more time for a little bit of riding on Babbitt Ranch, which was reputed to be some of the easiest riding on the AZT. And it was, at least the 4-mile section that we rode out and back from the Cedar Ranch Trailhead.

The adventure started early: the Cedar Ranch Road is unmarked at the entrance, which also proclaims it a "commercial road with no through access, not for passenger car traffic." (So, probably it does have through access to the 89, and it's well-graded, so passenger cars can easily navigate it.) We stopped for a while to get our bearings. Thanks to the poor road grader who waited for a while for us to go, then started out, back down the road. The Cedar Ranch trailhead is about 7 miles in on this road, past a turnoff to Cedar Ranch itself, and through a cattle gate. Turns out that along the road is all open cattle range.

The south end of Passage
35, from the trailhead.

The north end of Passage
34, from the trailhead,

Unfortunately, I used the "Delete Drive Out" feature in Route Scout on a part of the trail that I mountain biked, the south end of Passage 35. It deleted every element of the trail that was over 5 mph. So I have recreated our mountain bike route of September 20 from the Cedar Ranch trailhead below.

We did about 4 miles out; the marked route shows that the first about three miles were on Cedar Ranch Road, until the turnoff near Babbitt Lake, after which we went about one more mile (until we came to a more rocky downslope). Cedar Ranch Road was well graded, and past the turnoff a little less so, but ultimately very bikeable for beginners. We had relatively little time, some battered gear, and the Arizona Trail mountain biking guide that listed the Russell Tank section (about 10 miles north) as "intermediate." So we turned back at mile 4, making an 8-mile trip. The first of the pleasant surprises happened on our trip out on Cedar Ranch Road--a cattle roundup was going on. We'd seen cattle beyond (north of) the gate that we used to enter Passage 35, and we'd had a couple of anxious moments passing groups of open-range cattle. We'd also seen a parked horse trailer (empty) near the turnoff to Cedar Ranch Road. Now we saw a family group of cattle hands (some just children) slowly driving a herd along the road. From a safe vantage point off the road opposite the cattle drive, we waited for them to pass. On the way back, we saw them as they completed the drive.

The second pleasant surprise happened when we were loading the bikes at the trailhead after the ride: a through-hiker came along behind us and got some water from a cache near the trailhead. Apparently Trail Angels stash water along this part of the route because of the lack of water sources. I didn't get his picture or name, but he was hiking fast, and was ready to climb again into Flagstaff. He had apparently taken about two days to hike south from the Grand Canyon (about 40 miles), and he planned to resupply fully in Flagstaff. (This story has a sequel.)

Once more at the trailhead . . .

Grandpa Does the Arizona Trail: Passage 36

The rim of the Painted Desert

As of October 4, 2023, the passage has not been fully hiked or biked. In September 2023, parts of this passage were mountain biked:

September 18, 2023: After a long day completing Passage 37 from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon the day before, we drove to the Grandview Fire Tower to explore south on Passage 36, doing a 3-mile out and back route (6 miles total) on the trail. Before we hit the trailhead, we visited the Kaibab National Forest Ranger Station in Tusayan. While we were there, a Navajo (Dine') couple, one a hosteen (elder), the other, his wife or daughter. As she filled out their permits to gather firewood, he pointed out various dangerous creatures on the posters: the coral snake (tł'iish) and Gila Monster (tiníle'í). I wanted to say axhe'he'e' (thank you), but I didn't know the word at the time. 

The day was clear, with temperatures in the mid-70s; the ponderosa forest was open and clear, with the trails sometimes rocky and slopes with water bars. The trail would have been moderately easy, except that I had destroyed my shoes the day before on Passage 37. With duct tape they were barely usable, and did not unclip easily (3 falls for that reason alone). There were plenty of wildflowers, and good views of the Painted Desert Rim above Marble Canyon. 

Shoes and duct tape

On our arrival back at the Grandview Fire Tower, we met three through-trail riders on hybrid gravel bikes, fully loaded, who had been traversing the Great Western Trail, which winds through western U.S. states from North to South. This trail accommodates motorized as well as foot traffic, and parallels the Arizona Trail at this point, on nearby dirt roads. One of these riders had also hiked the Arizona Trail, and said that he would hike, rather than ride, the Arizona Trail.

Lunch stop

The link for the triplog of the North section bicycled: https://hikearizona.com/dex2/profile.php?u=146&ID=46#T__209816_______1

Well at Moqui

A ruined Wall

Moqui signage

On September 19, we drove to Moqui Stage Station, the access point to Passages 36 (S) and 35 (N). It's approximately 11 relatively easy miles on a gravel road from Highway 64. Because of the shoe issues, we had determined to hike, rather than mountain bike, the southern section of Passage 36. This was a shame, because after traversing the spur trail from Moqui, the trail followed two-track roads for as far as we went (2 miles out and back, for a total of 4 miles). The AZT bicycling guide had rated the section from Russell Tank to here as rougher mountain biking than the sections we had done, but the section we hiked did not seem to be so. Again, clear weather, temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s, wildflowers abounded. From the southern end of Passage 36, I did hike 1/4 mile farther down the beginning of passage 35.

Quite an anthill!

The link for the trip log of the South section hiked: https://hikearizona.com/x.php?x=209819

Grandpa Does the Arizona Trail: Passage 37

 

South Kaibab starting point

We began at the South Kaibab Trailhead, SOBO on September 17, 2023. Within the National Park, the AZT is not clearly marked until it becomes the Tusayan Connector Trail. The first 6-8 miles are mostly paved, though there is one AZT stretch in the national park that follows a power line maintenance road, rocky and rough. This early stretch gave us the unwarranted hope that we might be able to complete the ride in less than six hours.

One of the Arizona Trail underpasses

At the Tusayan turnoff, the AZT becomes two-track and single track to Grandview Lookout. Though designated "easy in the AZT bicycling guide, the two-track is actually quite rocky and rutted. This meant two things: a generally slower pace, because of having to walk bikes around obstacles (and because of the change in altitude from home), and the destruction of my (admittedly 40-year-old) touring shoes [pictured]. but the woods were open an often beautiful.

So, what we thought would be about a 6-hour tops ride ended up being about an eight-hour trip. Shuttling is an issue, since no shuttles travel between Grandview Point Overlook (near the Grandview Fire Tower). The AZT Trail Angel for this section has said that shuttles might be possible.

Our Lunch Spot outside Tusayan

But at the time, I had not thought about calling on a trail angel since I had had difficulties arranging things with other trail angels in other places, and because I (mistakenly) thought that 10 miles on Highway 64 back to the South Kaibab Trailhead (where we had left the car), would be safe and easily done. Between the shoe destruction, the onset of dusk, the tourist traffic, a lack of bike lights and general exhaustion, I ended up hitching a ride back to the car from a group of tourists at Grandview Point (thank you so much!) The trip, however, was a success, because if Emergency Services don't have to be called, how bad can it be?

Here is my RouteScout track from hikearizona.com: https://hikearizona.com/x.php?x=209797.

Grandview Fire Tower-End of the Passage

Grandpa Does the Arizona Trail: Passage 4

Well, I finally hiked the section of Passage 4 from Patagonia to the Temporal Gulch Trailhead (about half of the passage) on October 29, 2022 (my birthday present). We dayhiked from the Temporal Gulch Trailhead, where we were dropped off by Ken of Ken's Shuttle Service (a very nice person). We got the information from Ken that this portion of the trail is in the process of a reroute, to avoid the dirt roads it is currently following, and to avoid the Mount Wrightson wilderness. In the process, it will also avoid going directly through Patagonia. In my opinion it would be a loss to stay out of the wilderness area, and Patagonia is a very nice town.

At the Temporal Gulch Trailhead, they've installed a number of informational signs--

you can see from the picture that there's a triptych of information about the trail itself, then to the right of the picture is a standalone sign commemorating the Native American heritage of the area; in this case, these are the ancestral lands of the Tohono O'odham people. What was interesting was that this sign was in Spanish, with some O'odham words. I looked around for an English translation, but didn't find one (I didn't look at the other side of the sign). I've been told that there should be both a Spanish and English version there, but I did find it odd that one colonial language should be represented, and not the other. Again, maybe I just missed the English side.

This section, as currently routed, is all on Forest Road 72, which becomes 1st Avenue going into Patagonia. The day was perfectly clear, around 65 degrees, with sweeping landscapes and great bits of small nature. About half way through the hike, we could see the town of Patagonia in the distance. To the north is Mount Wrightson. Though it's not wilderness, we did have a day in which we saw few other people before re-entering town. It's clear, as well, that the people of Patagonia appreciate hikers on the AZT. The town is a great mix of cowboy and mining history, with plenty of young families and (apparently) a growing gravel bike scene. Also, some great food and coffee.

Mount Wrightson

The town of Patagonia in the distance

Some small nature . . .

Signs of history . . .

Interesting mesquite . . .

Vista

\

Nice charity from townspeople . . .

"Downtown" Patagonia, across from the Stage Stop Inn.

Here's the passage map:  https://aztrail.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/04_TemporalGulch.pdf

Grandpa Does the Arizona Trail: Passage 1

And so it begins . . . Again. This iteration of my writing about my experience of the Arizona Trail starts, appropriately enough, on my 67^th birthday, and with two grandchildren. So, it’s now “Grandpa does the Arizona Trail;” this is a far cry, and 23 years, from my first hike on the trail (Passages 23 and 24) in 1999, with Richard Duerden. It’s taken until retirement for me to redefine my basic goal of hiking the entire trail; I’d originally conceived this as something that I’d do in passage order, all the way through. Wiser heads have convinced me that Gramps is probably not up for that, and that I ought to, instead, fill in the gaps that are left from my 23 years of travel on it so far. I will still probably retrace some steps, as well as filling in the gaps, and I may not walk all the way, since some of these passages are bikeable.

I’ve got other goals as well this time around. First, I want to give back something—I plan to participate in trail management and restoration activities as I have the opportunity. Second, I want to acknowledge: the Arizona Trail Association has begun to highlight the fact that we walk on Native lands, and I want to learn about the Indigenous perspectives about the land, as well as meditating on what has been my academic specialty for the past forty years or so—non-fictional European travel narratives of the Early Modern Period (approximately 1500-1700). Though my focus has been on British narratives and collections, I’ve also examined the Iberian exploration and conquest narratives that dominate this region. I’ve looked at the ways that the Spanish and British conceived of their colonial projects, and considered their perspectives on new landscapes.

It’s no surprise that my academic specialty has become politically incorrect, but that’s the problem with history—it often fails to correspond to ideals of historical progress. It’s also the case that, for better or for worse, there is a syncretism between various perspectives on the land and its meaning. We do need to deal with what is, rather than recast history into what we would ideally like it to be. I would like to think more deeply about this troubled relationship.

Wow. That was philosophical/pedantic. To get back to goals—I’ve gotten interested once again in photography. In its digital incarnation, photography has become much more versatile, and I’d like to document my travel in photographs and video, as well as words. With new digital equipment, I can do that now. I can also be more connected, using social media. Let’s see how much all this purpose modifies itself as I go.

So, here we go, with Passage 1. In September 2013, in the course of another trip, Chris and I had driven to the Montezuma Pass Trailhead, which is the nearest vehicle approach one can make to the Mexican border (unless, of course, one is a contractor working on the Trump-era border fence). I began to hike down the trail from the roadside overlook, toward the Coronado Monument on the border. I was smart enough to notice that it would take too much time to get there.

 On October 28 of 2022, just as before, Chris and I had planned a trip to southern Arizona wine country, this time staying in Patagonia. On our way there, we stopped, as planned, at the pass, intending to hike to the border and back, a total distance of just under 4 miles (thus, the two initial miles of the trail).

 The day itself was perfect (as the panorama above shows). A temperature in the high 60s made hiking bearable; the trail was just rough and vertical enough to be moderately difficult. The crystalline beauty of the sky and the brightness of the sun obscured the fact that it was quite chilly in the shade. The desert scrub plant community characteristic of this this altitude featured piñons, scrub oak, yucca and cholla, as well as desert grasses (some of which may have been introduced or invasive). The cholla had either yellow tips or yellow fruits. A few wildflowers remained in bloom.

We saw a total of two groups, both at the trailhead parking area. The rest of the trip, we were alone. The trail winds down to the border, losing just under 1000 feet in altitude, providing panoramic views all the way to the end. Surprisingly, the trail (which may have been rerouted by fence construction) approaches the border from the northeast, so that many of the loops of the descent give a view of a broad swath of Mexico. Some small buildings seen from above are actually on the Mexican side of the border. In the absence of the high border fence, the border is essentially invisible. At the small obelisk monument that anchors the southern end of the trail, the ironies of the border become most apparent. The border fence has been built from what looks like the memorial boundary to just west of the small monument itself. The area immediately north of the border seems to have been graded (strangely, there is a bench at the top of a grade cut opposite the actual obelisk, suggesting that at one time there was a 30-foot or so descent by the trail from the viewpoint bench.) Now it is about a 15-foot bank.

The segment of fence lends a surreal air to the landscape. The wind hums through the bars of the fence, and the scale of the construction suggests a scene from “2001: a Space Odyssey.” This surreal air is not dissipated by the sight, about a mile to the west, outside the memorial boundary, of the interim double-high “wall of containers” currently being built by the state of Arizona. But the whole situation is incongruous. One warning sign at the entrance to the memorial warns individuals: “Do Not Flee from Law Enforcement.” A volunteer at the memorial office said that travel in the memorial was “very safe in the daylight.” The volunteer also mentioned that the Arizona Trail is at this point relatively highly monitored by state authorities and the Border Patrol. (I’m not sure what I think of hiking under surveillance when I do the rest of the passage.)

As I explore more fully, I'll enter more.

Here's the map of the hike from that day: https://hikearizona.com/dex2/profile.php?I=3&u=146&ID=46&start=15&MI=T200563#T__200563_______1

10.30.2023

View from Parker Canyon Trailhead, Looking east.

 Another birthday trip, this time southbound from the Parker Canyon Lake trailhead toward the border. The trip itself was about 3.2 trail miles total (so, 6.4 out and back). We went southbound from the Parker Canyon Lake Trailhead. The trailhead is one of the most scenic I've been to (outside of places like Yaki Point at the end of the South Kaibab trail through the Grand Canyon). It was great hiking for about 2 miles south (clear skies and temps in the low 70s), but about .84 miles southbound from the Scotia Canyon Trailhead, the trail is torn up (they seem to be decommissioning a two-track road with some small bulldozer), and sections are obstructed by deep ravines and downed timber. It is clear that there's construction going on, because the new AZT gates and construction concrete are cached at two spots where there are currently crude gates through barbed wire fences.

Past these fences we began to see bear sign/scat on the trail. As we walked the scat became more and more common and fresher. There was a significant crosswind and a fair amount of brush; we did have bear spray, but still felt a little exposed, as we wouldn't have in a larger party. So, at mile 3.2, still seeing scat, we turned around.

There is a windmill with solar panels, shown but not labeled on the Route Scout map. However, the official Arizona Trail map (the 2023 official PDF mapbook) places the windmill at Mile 17.1, about 3 miles from the Parker Canyon Lake Trailhead. It is actually at mile 18.1 (about 2 miles from the trailhead), if one is using the miles marked on the official trail map.

The trail itself winds from some Sonoran grassland upland that looks somewhat like California, down through a set of canyons, climbing up toward Miller Peak and the Miller Peak Wilderness north of the Coronado National Memorial. The land around the trail from Parker Canyon Lake looks a lot like historic ranch country, given the grasslands and the water-bearing canyons that bisect it. The cow skull we saw, carefully set on a cut stump, indicates that cattle have been run here in the recent past, and the bear sign suggests wildness. The piñons, junipers, and live oak woods in the canyon bottoms parallel the creek, and the trail is bisected by downed timber and washouts. The windmill, an mixture of old (the windmill) and new (solar panels, which now apparently run the water pump for the tank), make it feel as though the 19^th century has met and married the 21^st.

 Here’s the Route Scout map and triplog from that day: https://hikearizona.com/map.php?TL=210578

 As of October 30, 2023, I’ve now done approximately 5 miles of this 20-mile passage.